Duba Plains area

outstanding

This concession mainly consists of large open plains, which are actually quite dull on first inspection. These flats are actually the remnants of papyrus beds which have dried out over the last century. This very young ecosystem is yet to fully mature and for the moment the area is dominated by two species ... enormous herds of buffalo eat the lush grass on these fertile young plains and enormous prides of lions eat enormous numbers of buffalo. A singular, gruesome and truly remarkable game-viewing experience.

This west delta concession consists mainly of large open plains, the remnants of papyrus beds which have dried out over the last century. This very young ecosystem is yet to fully mature and is presently dominated year round by two species ... lion and buffalo.

Safari here is a very singular and gruesome experience, dominated by lions hunting buffalo on open plains, often during daylight hours. Buffalo take a long time to die, so this really is not for the faint-hearted

Duba Plains Camp is one of the most remote safari camps in Botswana's Okavango Delta. Situated in a private reserve in the northern reaches of the Delta, this camp is surrounded by seasonally flooded plains, with date palm islands liberally dotted about, providing shade from the heat of the day to the many animals in the area.

Lion and buffalo interaction here is the order of the day – with many dramatic encounters recorded – during our time here we watched with bated breath as a herd of some 700 strong buffalo surrounded the date palm islands where a pride of 14 lions were hiding – the scenes were fascinating to watch as the angry buffalo tried to flush out the lions only to be repelled with much snarling and growling.

It is in the Duba Plains area that renowned wildlife photographers and filmmakers Derek and Beverley Joubert made their now famous film, “Relentless Enemies” – chronicling the battle to survive between the lions and buffalo on the Plains, and how each species has adapted to their unusual way of life. Worth mentioning also is the birding, with such specials as wattled cranes, painted snipe and slaty egrets being found in the area.

We really like Duba Plains Camp – we find it rustic and low key, very relaxed and welcoming. It is essentially a traditional tented safari camp with elegant and spacious tents reached along sandy pathways. The dining room and bar area are separate, and are both raised on decks underneath enormous fig, ebony and garcinia (African wild mangosteen) trees, which provide plenty of shade.

The views from each deck are over the floodplains, beyond which the real action happens. There is a small plunge pool, rather unattractively placed in the middle of a scrubby area, but still providing a welcome relief from the heat of the day – in October and November the Okavango Delta can reach temperatures of up to 40 deg C!

The staff at Duba are friendly and relaxed – and went out of their way to make us feel welcome – an impromptu performance by the camp choir was the highlight of one evening. We were guided by James (known as Bond 007!) who had an uncanny knack of knowing where to find the lion, the buffalo, how to place the safari vehicle so that the best sights were afforded, and how to find the smallest patch of shade for a rest and a cool drink.

It's worth noting that the safari vehicles here have no overhead canopy so it can get very hot – we brought hats, sunglasses and factor 50, and wet kikoys to wrap around our heads as the temperature crept upwards.

Click on a link for more details of:
Tented Chalet at Duba Plains

Lodge overview
Lodge type: Safari
No. of bedrooms: 6 tented rooms
Season: Open Year Round
Ideal length of stay: three or four nights is ideal here; two night is really too short if you want a good chance of seeing lion-buffalo interactions
Central facilities: The main area of Duba Plains Camp comprises a large split level deck overlooking a floodplain, with a large round boma and fire pit set out to the front. Various traditional Okavango crafts are around, and some of these are available to purchase – generally the baskets have been made by the local staff. The main area has a bar at the back, from which clients can help themselves. In front of the bar is a large lounge area furnished with comfortable sofas and chairs and a cupboard which serves as a small library.

Up the stairs is a tea and coffee station to the left and a large dining table made from African hardwood, where dinners are served. In front of the dining room, set down on a wooden deck, is the circular boma and fire pit, around which stories can be exchanged after dinner while enjoying an Amarula. The fire is lit every evening and the chairs are metal directors chairs which are surprisingly comfortable. Steps down from the lounge area lead out to a sandy path culminating in steps up to the second deck, raised slightly higher, where brunches are served. This has two large tables, with all seats affording great views, and a small plunge pool with sunloungers at the back. There is a separate lavatory on the way to this deck which is quirkily designed around the trunk of a fallen tree.

Geographics
Location: Okavango Delta Safari Reserves, Botswana
Directions: Fly in and five minute transfer by vehicle to camp. Planes often buzz past the camp on the way out.
Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Key personnel
Owner: Duba is rare in that it is community owned – Wilderness lease the land from the local community and re-tender every 15 years.
Staff: The camp managers when we visited were Tebby and Moalosi – also Francois joined halfway through. During our stay we were ably guided by James (Bond 007!) who has guided at Duba for 10 years.

Food & drink
Usual board basis: Full Board
Food quality: The food is served buffet style (always ladies first!) and was of a consistently good quality. Early morning breakfast before the activities was muffins, cereal, fruit and toast and then on returning, brunch was served on the pool deck shaded by large umbrellas (notwithstanding an occasional gust of wind!). Generally this consisted of a meat option, a vegetarian option and a selection of salads. Dinners served in the main area were excellent – one evening we had a delicious mushroom bruschetta, followed by roast chicken with seasonal vegetables and a wonderfully light lemon mousse to end with. There is a very good selection of wine – Chardonnay, Sauvignon/Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon etc. At the end of every meal, a selection of cheeses are passed round which would not humble a restaurant here in London.
Dining style: Group Meals
Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining
Room service: No, this is a safari camp.
Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included
Drinks included: Bottled water, soft drinks, local beers and spirits, and a limited selection of South African red and white wines are included. Champagne and imported wines and spirits will cost extra and may need to be requested in advance.

Children
Attitude towards children: Children are welcome with the restrictions set out below.
Age restrictions: The camp may accept ages 8 – 12 if the full camp is booked but this must be requested in advance. 12 years and over are welcome. 7 years and under are not accepted.
Activities: None.
Equipment: There is no special equipment for children kept at camp.
Generally recommended for children: We would recommend Duba Plains Camp for children over the age of 12 years.

Whilst there are other safari areas across Africa where lion action can peak to these levels, nowhere is it as sustained and hard-hitting action as this

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